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How To Change The Cabin Filter On A 2012 Gmc Acadia

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How long is it safe to go west/out a carbon insert in the tank filter?

Rikard

  • #1
I've been treating my fish for ich w/ malachite green (spelling?), so per the instructions I've had to have out the carbon filter. I've treated the tank, done a 50% water change the adjacent day, then waited 3 days & repeated the process three times as instructed on the characterization. The problem is I was using 1/2 doses of the medication b/c virtually of the fish in the tank are listed as sensative to it on the bottle, & it looks like there's a unmarried white spot on a couple of the fish. And then, volition I crusade the fish harm by doing additional treatments & not having a filter in the tank for an extended period? W/out a filter there's definitely been some increased algae growth on the glass. In that location's a couple of live plants & an airstone in the tank likewise, if that makes any differance. Thanks.

Oh, simply to exist clear, if there's even a single spot on ane fish does it accept to be ich, or could that exist natural?

Dlondon95

  • #2
What practice you hateful my you took out the carbon filter? Did you lot just take the carbon out of your filter or turn off the whole filter?

kinezumi89

  • #iii
Many members don't employ carbon at all. If your filter cartridge is similar a package with the carbon inside, then you can cutting it and remove the carbon, while leaving the cartridge in your tank. You must leave the media in, as information technology's what holds your leaner; if you remove it, y'all'll take no manner to process the ammonia produced past your fishes' waste matter and it will exist as if your tank was never cycled.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #4
The filters still on, simply I took out the carbon filter that I replace monthly. It'due south a tetra whisper ex30, it says its got 2 unlike filters inside: the carbon filter that's supposed to be replaced & a "bio-scrubber" that removes ammonia & nitrites, which I've left in.

kinezumi89

  • #5
That is a bit of a scam past the companies. You should NEVER replace the filter media, unless it is quite literally falling apart. That's what holds all of your bacteria! Every fourth dimension you throw it away, you are throwing away your benign leaner and your tank has to recycle.

Do you lot always test your water? These results should emphasize this fact, if y'all test earlier and after you lot supplant the media.

Also, compounds that remove ammonia are not necessary. In one case your tank is cycled, the bacteria consume the ammonia produced by the fish waste product. If you remove the ammonia, then the bacteria has naught to eat!

Hope this helps a bit. Y'all may wish to read the stickies on cycling an aquarium, since information technology sounds like yours may not be cycled, if yous replace the filter media monthly.

Junne

  • #6
You could also get some plain media cut-to-fit pads. I used those in my main tank, along with other forms of media ( biomax ) and my pre-filter sponge acts as expert media for bb. They only become rinsed in tank water every half dozen weeks or when they look actually bad ( I check them every other week to make sure nothing is bottleneck them up )
I hold about the companies who tell you replace the filter media every 3 months. Bad advice! They are also the aforementioned people who say to just add together water and fish with declorinator and that's it! I learned and then much by people who are experienced in fishkeeping ( hither on this forum and online elsewhere )
Its all-time to learn from people who are experienced at this

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #vii
But aren't you supposed to remove the filter media when yous treat for ich anyway? Wouldn't you take to replace information technology in one case in that location was ich in the tank? Oh, dorsum to the 1st part, is it safe to treat the fish longer than the canteen reccomends if I'g using 1/2 doses?

And if the tank is going to wheel again west/ fish in information technology, is in that location anything I should do to make it easier on them? i.due east. compounds that remove amonia.

Tigress Hill

  • #viii
Prime number will neutralize your ammonia, nitrites, and possibly nitrates for 24 hours, too as dechlorinate your tap h2o

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Ok, simply do I need to actually use something like that now? There hasn't been a filter media for 10 days, b/c the ich meds said to remove information technology while treating.

kinezumi89

  • #10
Agreed with Tigress. The important part is unlike the product yous're using, Prime doesn't REMOVE ammonia, it merely changes information technology to a unlike substance that is no longer toxic to fish, Just can still be consumed by the bacteria. Perfect!

No demand to remove the filter. Then you won't have any bacteria to consume the ammonia! How you lot're treating for ich is a factor, though. If y'all're treating the natural way, by increasing the temperature (which is always recommended kickoff) then you'll exist fine. If you lot're treating with meds, and the filter and carbon are new, then you will need to remove the carbon Merely but the filter media stays. The filter media stays forever! If it gets a little chock-full upwards, take a saucepan of water out of the tank and swish the filter around in there a bit to remove the gunk, then back in the filter housing it goes. You mustn't rinse with tapwater, as the chlorine will kill the leaner.

If you're unfamiliar with the natural method of curing ich, here is a nifty thread that describes it: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/curing-ich-naturally.105665/

Edit: Yes, definitely pick upwardly a bottle right away! The total proper noun is "Seachem Prime number;" you lot tin get it at Petsmart and Petco. And put that media back in! (Without the carbon, of form. The ich meds would accept directed to remove the carbon, because it volition remove the medication from the h2o, only the cloth-y role of the media stays, forever and always!) The bacteria is of course expressionless, since the filter has dried out, just information technology will get to growing again at least.

My suggestions
i. Buy a canteen of Seachem Prime and dose for the full amount for your tank volume daily, until you reach stride three.

2. Purchase a liquid examination kit (if you don't already have one) such every bit the API freshwater primary test kit. This is imperative in determining if your tank is cycled. If y'all aren't familiar with the nitrogen cycle, click on the underlined text and read up on it. In a nutshell, your fish produce waste product, which decays and produces ammonia. Ammonia is toxic to fish, only bacteria abound on surfaces and in your filter media that consume ammonia and produce nitrite. Nitrite is also poisonous, just other bacteria consume nitrite and produce nitrate. Nitrate is only toxic in loftier quantities, and then we exercise frequent (weekly) h2o changes to go along the levels beneath 20ppm. Your tank volition exist cycled when ammonia and nitrite are 0ppm (considering the bacteria consumes it as shortly as information technology is produced) and y'all have measurable nitrates. This is why a exam kit is so of import!

3. Buy a bottle of Tetra SafeStart. This is a bottle of the beneficial leaner that grow in your filter media. Read upwardly on this thread showtime: https://world wide web.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/q-a-with-tetra-about-tetra-safestart.58116/ In a nutshell, here's what you do:
A. Test your water and brand sure the ammonia is beneath 1.0ppm. If not, do a h2o modify using Tetra AquaSafe equally your water conditioner. Other conditioners may cause TSS (Tetra SafeStart) to fail, so discontinue using Prime for the time existence. (Don't worry, you'll go more utilise out of it in the future, then your money is not lost. )
B. Dump in the canteen of TSS.
C. For 2 weeks..nothing! Feed your fish of course, but NO testing the h2o and NO water changes for the two full weeks. Once the two weeks are up, test your water and if your results are 0ppm ammonia and nitrite and you have measurable nitrate, then your tank is cycled! Rejoice!

Now that your tank is cycled: NEVER throw your media abroad! Don't listen to the instructions on the package, they just want your money. If your media is getting actually one-time and is literally falling apart, here'southward what you do: Purchase a new filter cartridge. If at that place is room, stick it in the filter housing with the new one. This may require removing the plastic frame inside the old cartridge, but that'due south okay, the new cartridge will hold information technology upright. Wait at least 2 weeks (just more is amend) for the bacteria to start growing on the new cartridge. And so you lot tin throw the quondam, fally-aparty 1 away. This mode, you always take bacteria in your tank to procedure your fish'due south waste.

About the ich again, I recommend treating your fish the natural way, by simply raising the temperature, for multiple reasons:
1. As your tank is not cycled, y'all should do frequent h2o changes anyway to keep the ammonia/nitrite levels low enough to be condom for your fish. (Really, only 0ppm is safety, but before yous use TSS yous would exist dosing with Prime number, which will neutralize lower levels.) Every bit function of this natural method, you vacuum the gravel every other day or so, and then you lot kill ii birds with one stone - removing the ich cysts that accept fallen off the fish and landed in the gravel, and keeping the water prissy and clean for your fish!
two. As your fish have been subjected to a cycling tank (which is stressful) their immune systems have been compromised - this is very likely why they became infested with ich in the first identify. Perhaps you bought a fish that had ich and put information technology in the tank; simply a healthy fish with a robust immune system would not take succumbed to the fungus. SO since your fish's allowed systems are suppressed, it's a skilful thought to do as gentle a treatment as possible, if that makes sense. Rather than introducing harsh medicines into the tank, I call back it would be better to simply brand the tank nice and toasty for a few weeks, and proceed the water pristine.

Sorry for the lengthy post, but I hope this clears some things upward!

Tigress Hill

  • #11
I would use it now. What are your test kit readings?

rivulsevplec

  • #12
First upward you need to get some tests, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before people can help. What fish, tank size, fifty-fifty some photo'southward if possible. Get your filter going once more a.s.a.p, but with out the carbon, this will remove the medication.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #xiii
Thanks kinezumi89 (& co.), don't worry about the lengthy post, you just answered a lot of my questions in 1 shot & now I'm feeling a little improve. I've got another problem though, I don't want to raise the h2o temp too high b/c I've got a few fish in at that place that would probably exist ameliorate off in a temperate tank. I added live plants & an airstone then that they'd have plenty oxygen in the slightly warmer than ideal water temp (78 degrees), but I don't wan't to make things worse for them by raising the temp whatever college. The ich showed up w/ some glowlight tetras btw, I really demand to go a quarantine tank.

And then if I remove the carbon from the new filter media I merely added yesterday & add together the condom beginning (so long as the ammonia checks out), could I continue treating the fish w/ the malachite green? B/c that requires 50% h2o changes later each use. Or, should I hold off on the safety get-go until later on the treatment, wouldn't the required 50% water changes keep ammonia etc. low anyway?

kinezumi89

  • #14
Since y'all've started the treatment, you should keep as instructed. Discontinuing medication early tin can had bad consequences (such as an increased chance of making the a resistant strain). I don't know of malachite green would be bad to use while using TSS, but more than chiefly you tin can't do water changes, so all the more than reason to wait. (Once you dump the bottle in, it takes a little while for the bacteria to settle and cling to surfaces, so if y'all did water changes, you'd be throwing them away!)

Earlier we get any further: What size tank do you have, and what fish? There may exist other issues at manus besides an uncycled tank.

Cichlidnut

  • #fifteen
So, I did not read any of the stuff to a higher place, wayyy likewise long lol.

I don't use carbon in whatever of my tanks. It is not necessary.

I am very against using malachite green. It is harmful to fish. It is illegal to use malachite green in fish intended for food. Malachite greenish can issue fish on a genetic level and has an accumulative result. Later treating, information technology will persist in your fish for quite some time.

Heat is the easiest and best way of getting rid of ich. Ich actually is pretty piece of cake to cure.

Here'south a nice commodity almost curing ICH.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #xvi
Tanks 20gal. 4 neon & iii glowlight tetras, 2 minnows, iv ghost shrimp, & here'southward the kicker: hillstream loach. That'southward why I'm reluctant to increment the temp too high, & in add-on to the tetras & shrimp, why I've just used ane/2 doses of the malachite green. I've completed the treatments the med bottle suggested, merely as I said, looks similar the ichs still effectually. I didn't know if I could safely exercise additional treatments b/c I was using ane/two doses or not.

Only to head this off b/c I know what's coming.... I know I don't have plenty of either tetra, but I was actually just trying to add some neons & the guy at the fish store said theirs were being treated for ich ironically enough, but the glowlights would school w/ them so I could have a mixed group. I'yard pretty certain they brought the ich due west/ them. Also, I know the loach needs a lot of oxygen, that's why I added the live plants & airstone. He's actually doing fine, he hangs out on the underside of a flat stone I made an curvation w/ during the 24-hour interval, & scoots effectually all over the glass when I plow the light off. At ane signal he had a spot or ii on him & he was spending time by the filter outlet (I'm assuming b/c of more oxygen most there), just during the treatment his spots cleared up & he returned to his rock at the bottom of the tank. I'm guessing he's fine now & really the glowlights look fine too, hence why I put in the new filter media. Then I noticed that 1-two of the neons (who've been at that place for a while) appeared to have a spot on 1 of their fins. None of the fish are interim lethargic or eating whatever less, seems like information technology's pretty minor at the moment. Only I wasn't sure if there'd be agin affects from continuing ich meds or if there was anything else I could do.

So, I did not read any of the stuff in a higher place, wayyy too long lol.

I don't use carbon in whatever of my tanks. It is not necessary.

I am very confronting using malachite green. It is harmful to fish. It is illegal to apply malachite greenish in fish intended for food. Malachite greenish can upshot fish on a genetic level and has an accumulative effect. Afterwards treating, it will persist in your fish for quite some time.

Heat is the easiest and all-time manner of getting rid of ich. Ich really is pretty like shooting fish in a barrel to cure.

Here's a squeamish article well-nigh curing ICH.


Am I non seeing the link, or......?

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #18
Thanks, like I said, not sure if I want to gamble high oestrus westward/ the fish I have though. Argh.... This stuff is and so frustrating sometimes.....

cognizant

  • #nineteen
The just time I use carbon in my filters is after I've finished treatment to remove the medicine. When I put the new cartridge in with the carbon I cut apart my old cartridge and stuff the pieces into the filter.

Also, I take had a lot of luck treating Ich with Microbe-Elevator Herbtana. It isn't a medicine to kill the Ich merely rather rebuild the slime coat on the fish then that the Ich tin can't reattach itself and somewhen starve to death. Also, it was the simply fourth dimension I used a treatment and didn't lose my bike.

kinezumi89

  • #xx
That does put you in a fleck of a pickle. I believe minnows may be coldwater fish likewise.

Is information technology feasible to prepare a quarantine tank? This way you could either move the afflicted fish and treat them there, or move the loach temporarily and treat the main tank. Unfortunately the tank wouldn't exist cycled, and so if you moved the sick fish, you'd have to either style for new filter media to seed in your current tank (put new media in with the old stuff, expect for bacteria to grow on information technology, takes a few weeks...I call up I may have explained it in a higher place, I forget) or yous'd take to use TSS and wait the two weeks. You could move the loach and do TSS on the tank, then when treating the master tank was done yous could move him and the cycled media back, so the media wouldn't get to waste. Only I'g not sure what the smallest acceptable tank size is, and then that might non be a feasible choice either.

Another selection of grade would exist upgrading and getting a larger tank. (I'm just full of expensive ideas, I know.) If you got a new tank that was big enough to house the loach, that could be his new permanent habitation. Put TSS is, maybe a few new fish you'd similar to permanently keep, and then you could care for the tank you have now using the estrus method.

If more tanks are not possible, either financially or space-wise, y'all could try other medicines that are thought to be more than prophylactic than malachite light-green. (I've never used information technology, so I wasn't aware of possible issues.) Mardel makes a production called Maroxy which treats fungal infections (which ich is); y'all could endeavour looking into that also.

I wanted to add that I saw another member mentioning treating ich in a goldfish tank. She said that she raised the temperature to 88 for two weeks with no ill effects to her fish. Maybe this means you could do the heat treatment, even with your loach in the tank?

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #22
I'yard just trying to exist really conscientious with the little guy. When I got him I was just looking to trade in a pleco (b/c I didn't have plenty room) & some fish that were a piffling also aggresive for my tank & get a dwarf pleco. Then I saw the loach which looked really neat & they told me he'd be fine in my tropical tank, stay small, & consume algae like a pleco...... Needless to say, they failed to mention the fact that he comes from a fast moving h2o system & therefore needs high oxygen levels. Betwixt the airstone & alive plants it seems similar he's fine, but I don't want to make things whatever more difficult for him. He'southward the only fish I've named & I don't want to stress him out too much. From what I've read the fact that he'due south doing well after a couple of weeks in my tank is a pretty good sign. I call up I'm going to try that slime coat stuff someone suggested on the previous folio, can I use that at the same time as the tetra starter stuff?

kinezumi89

  • #23
Unfortunately the only chemic that can exist used with Tetra SafeStart is Tetra AquaSafe, which is Tetra's water conditioner. But the TSS volition protect your fish from ammonia and nitrite while the tank is cycling. Other water conditioners such as Seachem Prime and StressCoat (I forget who makes it) may crusade TSS to fail, so I wouldn't gamble it.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #24
And then, I approximate I'thousand just in a bit of a pickle. Can't care for the ich & utilise the prophylactic start unless I utilize heat, & don't want to utilize oestrus b/c I've got a few non tropical fish. Ok, call back this is what I'thousand going to do: 25% water change today, followed past ane more 1/2 dose of malachite light-green (later on removing the carbon from the filter media), and so 50% water change tomorrow per the malachite green instructions, then I'll wait a day and so that the greenish has a chance to hopefully clear up any remaining ich as it seems really minor at present anyway. And so I'll do another 25% or then water alter, & add the safestart & aquasafe. Then I'll merely notice for a couple of weeks to brand sure everythings ok, & the condom offset has a chance to do its job before irresolute the water. Audio acceptable?

Oh, in case anyone was curious, the loach is named Scooter b/c of the way he moves. Information technology'south actually pretty funny the mode he just scoots around the tank glass & then near glides/hovers from 1 side to the other occasionally. Especially when he hits the bubbling from the air rock & he gets lifted like a hang glider in an updraft.

Just curious, w/out any filter media at that place'due south been a lot more green algae growth, does that indicate at that place's still some benign bacteria/micro organisms in the tank or are they unrelated?

kinezumi89

  • #25
I was going to ask what his name is.

But to clarify, you don't HAVE to add together Tetra Aquasafe when using TSS, merely if you do a water change before calculation TSS, then Aquasafe is the conditioner yous must utilize. (If this makes sense.)

About the algae, my estimate is that it is considering of decreased nitrates in your tank. You removed the filter cartridge which independent the bacteria that consumed ammonia and produced nitrates. Because you have less bacteria, you will have less nitrates. I currently take a bit of an algae trouble in my 55 gallon tank because at that place are a lot of plants and not a lot of fish, so until I started dosing dry fertilizers, in that location was ordinarily 0ppm nitrates in the tank. Maybe you're now having a similar trouble. If it goes away in one case your tank is back to existence cycled, and so that might be the issue.

cognizant

  • #26
If more than tanks are not possible, either financially or infinite-wise, you lot could try other medicines that are thought to be more safe than malachite light-green. (I've never used it, so I wasn't aware of possible issues.) Mardel makes a product called Maroxy which treats fungal infections (which ich is); you could attempt looking into that as well.

Ich isn't fungal, it's parasitic.

My proposition is to employ:

Microbe-Lift Herbtana + Microbe-Lift Special Blend + Microbe Elevator Dark Out II

Herbtana will starve out the parasite, Special Blend will kickstart a new wheel, and Dark Out Ii volition neutralize the Nitrites and Ammonia. They can all be used together, won't ruin a bicycle, and work really well.

I have used the 3 together before, and my fish were without Ich in 2 days (I connected using information technology for the entire treatment), I never lost my wheel, lost no fish, and my Skunk Loach wasn't affected in any negative ways.

The 3 are fabricated to be used together for the whole purpose of removing the Ich, keeping the cycle, and not harming any fish.

kinezumi89

  • #27
Ich isn't fungal, it's parasitic.

My suggestion is to use:

Microbe-Lift Herbtana + Microbe-Elevator Special Alloy + Microbe Lift Night Out II

Herbtana volition starve out the parasite, Special Blend will kickstart a new cycle, and Night Out 2 volition neutralize the Nitrites and Ammonia. They tin can all exist used together, won't ruin a wheel, and work really well.

I have used the iii together before, and my fish were without Ich in 2 days (I connected using information technology for the entire handling), I never lost my bicycle, lost no fish, and my Skunk Loach wasn't affected in any negative ways.

The 3 are made to be used together for the whole purpose of removing the Ich, keeping the cycle, and not harming whatsoever fish.


How about that! I always thought it was fungal for some reason. You learn something new every day

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #28
The microbe elevator trio sounds like that may exist the way to go, thanks for the input. I'm sure the directions would say, merely if I use all 3 of those together would I also not alter water or anything for a few weeks then the the bacteria had time to get acclimated?

Oh, practise you lot know if they conduct those products at petco?

cognizant

  • #29
I think it'southward no h2o change for 10 days if I remember correctly. I bought mine at PetCo so if they are yet they should carry it.

Just remember to cut the carbon out of the cartridge, but exit the cartridge in the filter.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #30
Thanks for the assistance. I'll do that tomorrow. I feel better now that I've got an alternative to oestrus or malachite green to help due west/ the ich. Appreciate everyones patience.

On a side not, passed fifty posts finally! Now I tin go dorsum & add to everyones reputation that's been particularly helpfull. Pitiful if I miss someone.

cognizant

  • #31
I would do a water change prior to starting the handling, then if y'all have any other meds in the tank from earlier try and run a filter with carbon for a bit to get them out. If you accept prime throw that in the tank with the water change. Look a few hrs before calculation the trio.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #32
I stopped treating a few days ago & added a filter west/ carbon, and so the green should exist out. I'll practice a h2o alter this evening, then by tomorrow should be ok to put in the trio.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #33
Hey cognizant, just want to make sure I got the right matter. Went & bought a microbe elevator 3 pack today westward/ 3 dissimilar products in it that are supposed to be used together/in iii steps. The 2nd & 3rd bottle are the special alloy & nite-out Ii, merely the 1st isn't called herbtana. It only says aquatic stress relief on the bottle, just it says that it promotes the slime coat & contains aloe. Is this what I should be using? I didn't see a herbtana specifically, merely this sounded similar what y'all mentioned, & it was sold equally a 3 pack. Just wanted your stance before I started w/ information technology.

Oh, would it make any differance that I did a 25% water alter yesterday & used my normal h2o conditioner? The carbons been in the filter upwardly until this point if that makes a differance.

cognizant

  • #34
The water modify shouldn't matter. I did a 75% WC the day before I used it and dosed the tank with prime.

Special Blend and Night Out Two are the ones I used. I'm not sure if that 3rd one is the same. Here is a link to the picture of the 1 I used. That other one yous bought may piece of work, simply I am not sure.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #35
Darn, this is what I got Well, what I got should safely cycle the tank at least. Exercise you think I could just try the stuff that I bought & proceed an middle out for ich symptoms? Similar I said, I already treated westward/ malachite green & now I oasis't seen any signs of ich for at to the lowest degree a day and a half. And the 1st canteen in the pack adds to the slime glaze, which someone previously stated might help. Assuming that's what I practise, tin I apply the herbtana concurrently west/ the other products?

cognizant

  • #36
I don't see why you couldn't use the Herbtana with those, simply you can try those 3 first and meet what happens. I suggested Herbtana because it was specifically designed for the parasites, but if y'all think the Ich is cured use the iii you bought, sentinel for signs of Ich, and if it comes back try and get the Herbtana. I like the Microbe-Lift company because it is the only one I know of that allows y'all to both combine dissimilar items and doesn't injure the sensitive scaleless fish like Loaches.

Rikard

  • Thread Starter
  • #37
Thanks for the proposition. When I went to the store I forgot the specific names of the products & merely remembered the brand. Since these 3 were packaged together I idea that was correct. I'll give it a try & see what happens. As an aside, the 3 pack was too very reasonably priced at around $12-13 which was dainty. Although y'all'd need more for a tank larger than 20 gal.
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