How To Change Rear Brakes On A 1998 Chevy 1 Ton Dually

I am moving on to another phase of my '49 1 one/2 ton 4408 flatbed rebuild. I constitute out the back brakes were locking upwardly. Upon inspection I found both rear brakes need rehab for various reasons. It took quite a fleck of piece of work to pull the emergency brake cables off but I got them cleaned up. I need to pull the hubs and drums to go to the brakes. The store manual says the 48 - 50 require the hub and pulsate to be pulled as a unit just I tin can't for the life of me encounter how they come off. I pulled the beam caps off and that doesn't go me anywhere. Do I need to pull the axles showtime?
RE: Rear Hub/Drum Removal on 1 1/2
I got 'em off. You lot do have to pull the floating axle first; that's piece of cake. Then there are two nuts and a lock ring behing the beam splines. The splines appoint the beam to the hub. Now I'm off to fix the brakes on the rear. They need cycle cylinders and adjusters fixed, drums turned, etc.
RE: Rear Hub/Drum on 1 1/2
_DON'T_ turn the brake drums ! DO Not brand this common fault ! .

Simply if they're so out of round that you feel restriction pedal pulsation .

If you don't belive me , become ask Bob Adler , a globe famous old truck guru .

-Nate
RE: Rear Hub/Drum on 1 1/2
OK. Any reason why not? One of my drums has some pretty noticeable scoring. The other is glazed. That's the ane that was locked up. I plan on going through the wheel cylinders and giving everything else a thourough cleaning since they are caked with blackness restriction goo. I did not experience whatever pulsing in the brakes when I drove information technology. The left brake locked up while it was sitting with the emergency set. It seems it was just due to the cables being gunked up and the mechanisms being total of grime. As well, the adjusters are not working and i is missing. I will need to find one.

I'k not familiar with Bob Adler.What mountian does i demand to climb to find him?

Equally ever, thanks, Nate.
RE: Turning Drums
O.Thousand. , here's the deal :

In that location never was much metal in these old brakes drums so each time y'all cut them (plough) yous arrive and so the get heat fade , faster ~ a _VERY_ bad thing if it happens to you , brake drums need the metal thickness to dissapate heat and once yous turn it , the heat has nowhere to go so you become brake fade , this is when the harder you push button the pedal , the faster the truck goes downhill...

I've been to many many brake clinics over the years , dorsum in the mean solar day when the same folks who Fabricated the brakes , gave classes for mechanics so you lot could do better quality piece of work .

Scored drums are bad yes -only- the new shoes will bed into the scoring in a few hundred miles so and so the wear is equalized and not a trouble . if the scording is really crude yous can smooth it upwardly a fleck with 600 grit sandpaper .

If it really , _really_ deep it is time to begin looking for new drums .

Yous tin only turn a drum once or twice anyway earlier it goes past the leagal thickness limit nayway and since you're dealing with 50 year sometime parts it'south prolly close to that diameter from normal use anyway .

BTW : wire brush the parking brake cables as clean as you can so soak them in altifreeze for a week or and so and they'll exist lubed for life , the first few times you pull information technology back & forth to draw in the antifreeze volition be a bugger merely keep at it .

Bob Adler is a globe famous former truck guy who's written possibly the all-time book on AD restoration , of grade I don't have a copy of it..

-Nate
RE: Turning Drums & cable lubing
Great info, equally usual, Nate. Thanks. Heres what I did before I got your tip on using antifreeze...

I took my E-brake cablevision tubes and soaked them with Penetrating oil on the exterior for nearly x minutes. Flexing the tubes a niggling will speed penetration. While I was waiting, I put some down both entrances for the cables into the tubes. The tubes are actually tightly wrapped wire similar a spring then the Penetrating Oil will work its way betwixt the windings. Put the cablevision tube in a vise using just enough pressure to concord the tube still; you lot don't desire to beat or deform it. Afterwards the 10 minutes, I carefully began turning the cablevision itself in the tube. Turn in the management that tightens the cable twist. Practise not turn the other way which will unwrap the brake cable and ruin information technology. I used a screwdriver in the clevis to become leverage. It will well-nigh immediately begin turning the entire cable in the tube and you can see it turning the whole cablevision. Subsequently making several comlete turns you can start pulling on the long stop of the cablevision and and so the short end to get the cable sliding in the tube. Once this was sliding back and forth I liberally kept shooting penetrating oil on the cable, sliding information technology dorsum and forth and then wiping with newspaper towels to become all the gunk off. Once the paper towels were coming off pretty clean I soaked the cablevision tubes with oil past flooding the cablevision and pulling information technology in and out of the tubes. And so I wiped off the excess oil. I merely used thirty wt engine oil. By the mode, the book recommends lubing the cables something like every 1000 miles.
RE: Pbrake cable lubing
The deal is : oil will evaporate in a year or less and you'll not exist thinking about re-lubing the cables untill they sieze again .

-Nate
RE: Pbrake cable lubing
That's a good bespeak.
I spent all this past weekend rehabbing the rear brakes. The bike cylinders were all messed up... adjusters were frozen, adjuster - brake shoes bolts were frozen, emergency brake mechanisms were frozen, wheel bearings (both inner and outer) were dry equally a bone. It took a day per side to rework and clean everything, replaced cylinder seals, polished the pucks, freed up the seized parts, etc. Did I mention the left cylinder didn't have a drop of fluid in information technology and the bleeder was locked up so tight I had to heat it with a torch to get it out? I nevertheless have to flush out the sometime fluid in the system, hook up the lines and bleed and and then re-install the emergency brake cables and arrange. I bet this babe will stop skillful when I am done. At least for a while.
RE: Brake Service Notes
I'g certain you know to lightly lubricate all the linkages and adjusters etc. , where the brake shoes touch the backing plates and and so on with Lubriplate # 107 Lithium based brake grease only never any prophylactic or hydraulic parts , McKay makes a GREAT brake Assembly Lube that if used to lubricate the rubber cylinder cups earlier assembly , will greatly increase the life of same .

You should affluent out the steel lines with booze or droplets brake cleaner before re-connecting them to the wheel cylinders or master cylinder , sharply curve each condom hoes and if yous encounter even the _tiniest_ scissure appear , change them out as they deteriorate from the _inside_ out , if the blakc outer housing isn't shiny , I'd change them out even if no cracks as they're a _SERIOUS_ safety detail and when one pops , y'all're in trouble at the worst possible time , guess how I know this ? .

You can become cheap syringes from the drugstore (Big ones) and employ to affluent the brale lines with alcohol or clean restriction fluid , you must not connect the freshly rebuilt cylinders untill clean fluid runs out the open up lines when y'all're flushing and flush with clean brake fluid after you lot're all done cleaning them .

-Nate
RE: Restriction Service Notes
I did lube all the linkages in the brake shoes, that was a no-brainer. I intend to flush all the lines with make clean brake fluid. I like the idea of using booze first. I suspect there is a lot of grime in the lines that has absorbed water vapor over the years. I sure don't desire to contaminate the wheel cylinders with onetime crud after all the piece of work I put in. I haven't even hooked the restriction lines dorsum upwards however; not until I flush them. On the rear-terminate all the lines are solid, so I don't accept to worry about the rubber thing. That will be office of working on the front brakes... side by side step.
RE: Rear Brake Flex Hose
Ah ;

In that location is _ONE_ flex hose to the rear end .....

Yous'd be amazed at how this stuff is _not_ a ' no brainer ' to the boilerplate DIY'er ~ one guy had unending troubles with his hydraulics untill I asked him if he'd touched the prophylactic $.25 with -anything- other than brake fluid ~ he replied , ' why yes ~ I rubbed penetrating oil on all the brake cups before assembly ' ~ God alone knows where he got that idea but he had to completely flush out the entire system with alcohol and supervene upon ALL the rubber in the entire brake system to repair the resulting contagion and problems it caused....

-Nate
RE: Rear Brake Flex Hose
I "finished" the brakes on the rear yesterday. You are right, There is one small piece of rubber at the back simply I was referring to the connections to the backing plates versus the flexes on the forepart wheels. No thing, I checked mine yesterday and information technology was fine.
The problem I found was that the adjusters work poorly. It seems that they are either worn on the nubs or they spin on the bolt. Ane is missing altogether. Ii of them ended upwardly getting a tack weld to solid them upward on the bolt. That helped, but I as well had to tack some of the nubs that were worn down and then they would appoint the bicycle cylinder cups. Even that didn't fix them 100%. I would similar to notice a source for the factory parts rather than make a fix myself on the milling auto, simply I am just starting that project.
I ended up getting well-nigh of the bicycle adjustments correct on the back, only am not 100% satisfied. I need to tackle the fronts and try adjusting them up. What I am seeing is that I don't quite go all the manner to the floor on the first stab of the peddle, but the second stab is very good after about two" of travel. I suspect I am pushing the shoes out with the first one and then doubling back with more fluid on the second to finish the movement. That seems to say the shoes are non adapted close enough to the drums. Since I know the backs are OK, the fronts must be the culprit. I did notice that both front wheels turn much freer than I would think which seems to support my idea that these shoes demand adjusting. Like I said, I haven't done anything to the fronts. I only attacked the backs considering the left i locked upwards. I am still in the mode where I just drive it upwardly and downwards my driveway (about 200 feet long) not out on the route until I take more than organized religion in the brakes.
Whatever idea on rehabbing tbe rear adjusters? I want to keep it as close to stock every bit possible, and so disks or new systems are not in the running.
RE: Rear Brake Adjusters
Can you take the old adjuster to your local brake jobber ? they may be able to match them up with new parts every bit the Bendix brakes were used into the 1970's.....

Lee still makes a LOT of early restriction poarts & kits for hardware.

Of maybe observe someone over on The Stovebolt Page who can help you lot .

-Nate